Icelandair lost the little suitcase which meant that US border officials had no agricultural products to scrutinize, and neither will the Canadians, but I will need to fill out a claim once I reach Toronto. However, everything else went as planned all the way from Gavle to Boston where I am now. It is quite remarkable how easily one flits across the globe these days, and with a minimum of paperwork.
I know about the pollution of the planes and the big gas usage and huge carbon footprint, but being with family is important. Yesterday Richard and I spent most of the day making cookies, but that is the stuff of life and real relationships. Bit funny to go to Sweden to do it, but very satisfying.
So, I don't plan to stop.
Friday 4 November 2011
Gavle -- a LOVEly place
Richard said it: "I love our little town", and he is certainly right that it is a lovely place to live.
I love the river running through it. Boats don't come up very far from the sea any more, but the waterway, nicely banked with stones and concrete walls, lends a gentleness to the centre of town as it divides the two older commercial areas. It means there are people fishing and open green spaces in the bustle. And in three weeks, the famous goat will stand there, watched by online viewers all over the world.
I love the old and the new, side by side, and sometimes, one inside the other. A very modern walking/cycling system (with appropriate visual and audio signals) leads the people-powered transit safely over old plazas, under railways, and into new developments along the waterfront. The city workers in their high-vis green overalls blow the leaves in the park between the two upscale old merchant streets, and then the mighty leaf sweeper picks them up.
I love the bakeries, yes, I am coming to appreciate the cardamom in the cinnamon rolls. It turns out it was the viking treasure brought back from India! And there are so many other fine breads (love the Epi sourdough apricot rye) and swedish cakes -- even princess torte under the layer of lime green fondant is a culinary delight.
I love the shopping. A friendly "hay, hay" will greet you in a grocery store, clothes shop, outdoor store, home decor spot, or whatever. And there is no snickering when an old lady points to something because she can't express herself in swedish. Or, there is a whole flood of swedish greeting and when you admit you don't understand anything, they switch effortlessly to english and carry on.
I love the subtle differences. Cookie sheets are the rack in the oven and thanks to the special non-stick sheets, one set of cookies gets pulled off the sheet and another onto the sheet, making even a little apartment oven, an efficient baking experience. Heated towel bars -- oh my! Bicycles accepted by the motorists. Serious recycling with different bins for weights of paper and types of plastic. Very little Sunday shopping and reduced shopping hours to help out the little retailers.
I love the heather in the planters. Fall and winter are still garden seasons, just with different species.
I love the lights everywhere. We lost daylight savings time last weekend and so it starts to get dark about 3:30 pm -- and they lose about 5 minutes of daylight each day! But already people and businesses are putting out lanterns or candles outside at their doors. Most curtains don't get drawn so you can see lights on in apartments and houses and they are left on even if the people are out. Last evening at the outdoor facility -- like a conservation area run by a company who has a lodge and cabins and maintains trails, there was a lovely lit walking path through the woods so that the area is used even in the dark times.
I love the cheese. The same lodge that has the lit paths, has a restaurant which was fabulous. Lobster pizza appetizer -- super, veal tenderloin with chanterelles -- amazing, dessert buffet of mini samplers -- innovative and delicious , but the highlight for me was the cheese buffet. There were 6 very different local cheeses with accompaniments of fruit, nuts and crisp breads -- WOW, and even the presentation (you served yourself onto slate tiles) was fantastic. Must remember to put the chunk of Vasterbottensost) into the suitcase.
I love the weather -- we had a great week, were not rained on. It was warm and still enough that even with the 93% humidity, walking was a great way to get around and see all the details on buildings and bridges.
And most importantly, I love that Richard and Jennie are so happy here!
I love the river running through it. Boats don't come up very far from the sea any more, but the waterway, nicely banked with stones and concrete walls, lends a gentleness to the centre of town as it divides the two older commercial areas. It means there are people fishing and open green spaces in the bustle. And in three weeks, the famous goat will stand there, watched by online viewers all over the world.
I love the old and the new, side by side, and sometimes, one inside the other. A very modern walking/cycling system (with appropriate visual and audio signals) leads the people-powered transit safely over old plazas, under railways, and into new developments along the waterfront. The city workers in their high-vis green overalls blow the leaves in the park between the two upscale old merchant streets, and then the mighty leaf sweeper picks them up.
I love the bakeries, yes, I am coming to appreciate the cardamom in the cinnamon rolls. It turns out it was the viking treasure brought back from India! And there are so many other fine breads (love the Epi sourdough apricot rye) and swedish cakes -- even princess torte under the layer of lime green fondant is a culinary delight.
I love the shopping. A friendly "hay, hay" will greet you in a grocery store, clothes shop, outdoor store, home decor spot, or whatever. And there is no snickering when an old lady points to something because she can't express herself in swedish. Or, there is a whole flood of swedish greeting and when you admit you don't understand anything, they switch effortlessly to english and carry on.
I love the subtle differences. Cookie sheets are the rack in the oven and thanks to the special non-stick sheets, one set of cookies gets pulled off the sheet and another onto the sheet, making even a little apartment oven, an efficient baking experience. Heated towel bars -- oh my! Bicycles accepted by the motorists. Serious recycling with different bins for weights of paper and types of plastic. Very little Sunday shopping and reduced shopping hours to help out the little retailers.
I love the heather in the planters. Fall and winter are still garden seasons, just with different species.
I love the lights everywhere. We lost daylight savings time last weekend and so it starts to get dark about 3:30 pm -- and they lose about 5 minutes of daylight each day! But already people and businesses are putting out lanterns or candles outside at their doors. Most curtains don't get drawn so you can see lights on in apartments and houses and they are left on even if the people are out. Last evening at the outdoor facility -- like a conservation area run by a company who has a lodge and cabins and maintains trails, there was a lovely lit walking path through the woods so that the area is used even in the dark times.
I love the cheese. The same lodge that has the lit paths, has a restaurant which was fabulous. Lobster pizza appetizer -- super, veal tenderloin with chanterelles -- amazing, dessert buffet of mini samplers -- innovative and delicious , but the highlight for me was the cheese buffet. There were 6 very different local cheeses with accompaniments of fruit, nuts and crisp breads -- WOW, and even the presentation (you served yourself onto slate tiles) was fantastic. Must remember to put the chunk of Vasterbottensost) into the suitcase.
I love the weather -- we had a great week, were not rained on. It was warm and still enough that even with the 93% humidity, walking was a great way to get around and see all the details on buildings and bridges.
And most importantly, I love that Richard and Jennie are so happy here!
Tuesday 1 November 2011
The Stuff of History
It was a dark and stormy night -- no, just an overcast morning, but that was just right for two tourists in the historic city of Uppsala. This area has been a popular place for quite some time -- Vikings lived here in the 7th century and left boat graves for later generations to dig up and analyse. Very decent of those old Norsemen to think of us struggling to learn about them, so they left dishes and jewelry and animals and dog collars and weapons all neatly arranged in a boat and then covered it up to preserve it. How considerate! And how wonderful that there is a group of people hanging around there who delight in digging up stuff--they even went to Egypt to do it.
As you can guess, Richard and I loved the Gustavianum Museum with many of the treasures collected by the oldest university in all Scandanavia -- 1477. They seem to have had a serious group of chemists and physicists walk down those halls, including Linnae of the classification of life. You know those old movies where all the med students are sitting in a steep-sloped room watching a dissection -- well, it happened here. And a civilized place it is, influencing the whole of the city which is clean, dignified, traditional in restaurant and hotel styling, and filled with cyclists. It has a lovely gothic church of protestant persuasion, so quite stark in its decor. There are plenty of parks and gardens and paths which would be much more impressive in warm weather -- make a note to self!
But we were off to Gavle by late afternoon and sped through the countryside. It is a short walk from the train station to Richard and Jennie's apartment, but you are put to the test carrying your suitcase up the 3 flights of circular stairs. Checked out one of Richard's favourite supermarkets for supper -- korv and a dish with an impossible-to-remember name but made of potatoes and sardines -yum!
Richard and Jennie have done some redecorating since I was here last year and the place looks lovely. With some strategic placement of shelving, they have modified a large living room into a semi-divided space which can be used more efficiently. They also have a fantastic piece of art in the front hall which inspires me. Must see what can be done!
As you can guess, Richard and I loved the Gustavianum Museum with many of the treasures collected by the oldest university in all Scandanavia -- 1477. They seem to have had a serious group of chemists and physicists walk down those halls, including Linnae of the classification of life. You know those old movies where all the med students are sitting in a steep-sloped room watching a dissection -- well, it happened here. And a civilized place it is, influencing the whole of the city which is clean, dignified, traditional in restaurant and hotel styling, and filled with cyclists. It has a lovely gothic church of protestant persuasion, so quite stark in its decor. There are plenty of parks and gardens and paths which would be much more impressive in warm weather -- make a note to self!
But we were off to Gavle by late afternoon and sped through the countryside. It is a short walk from the train station to Richard and Jennie's apartment, but you are put to the test carrying your suitcase up the 3 flights of circular stairs. Checked out one of Richard's favourite supermarkets for supper -- korv and a dish with an impossible-to-remember name but made of potatoes and sardines -yum!
Richard and Jennie have done some redecorating since I was here last year and the place looks lovely. With some strategic placement of shelving, they have modified a large living room into a semi-divided space which can be used more efficiently. They also have a fantastic piece of art in the front hall which inspires me. Must see what can be done!
Monday 31 October 2011
3 people, 22 square metres
Jennie's co-worker, Ewa, decided last summer that the stockmarket was not a wise investment at this point and so plunked down 1.8 million krowns for a 22 square metre apartment in Stockholm. I don't know whether this was wise, but it certainly worked out for Richard, Jennie and me this weekend. We dropped our stuff off on Saturday afternoon in a big brown brick building apartment on the ground floor. I don't know how 4, soon to be 5, people will manage in there, but for the 3 of us, it was a great home base and dining experience -- thanks to local food stores and the abundance of lovely breads and cheeses, fish, moose salami, lingonberry icecream, etc. Can't ask for better than that.
We also wandered many kilometers from this lovely location -- opposite a park which snuggles against one of the rivers. We shopped as there were some things that Richard and Jennie could only find in the big city. We looked at buildings and parks. Rich and I visited Skansen, a swedish pioneer village complete with Viking storehouse, reindeer, and glassblowing. We revelled in the lovely autumn weather.
So, while Jennie stays in the capital to do some work, Richard and I have moved north to Uppsala to take in some cultural and natural sights tomorrow and head to Gavle tomorrow evening. Jenn comes home on Wednesday evening.
It has been a wonderful weekend, spent with 2 young people who love this country and see the good before any bad. They are doing well and happy -- what more could a Mommy want?
We also wandered many kilometers from this lovely location -- opposite a park which snuggles against one of the rivers. We shopped as there were some things that Richard and Jennie could only find in the big city. We looked at buildings and parks. Rich and I visited Skansen, a swedish pioneer village complete with Viking storehouse, reindeer, and glassblowing. We revelled in the lovely autumn weather.
So, while Jennie stays in the capital to do some work, Richard and I have moved north to Uppsala to take in some cultural and natural sights tomorrow and head to Gavle tomorrow evening. Jenn comes home on Wednesday evening.
It has been a wonderful weekend, spent with 2 young people who love this country and see the good before any bad. They are doing well and happy -- what more could a Mommy want?
Friday 28 October 2011
Sitting at the gate
My leaving was certainly not as exciting as a mix-mix truck or even a mighty street sweeper, but the little boy endured the driver doing the payment thing and consulting his map for the next pickup and waved goodbye from the front window. It's tradition, you know. I wonder how many more traditions we pass on -- some knowingly, others totally unwittingly.
And so I am off on another adventure -- Richard said "Mom, come for a visit" and that's more than enough invitation. It will be a short trip, just a week, but there are some interesting plans which I hope work out, and the joy of visiting with family. I am looking forward to this time in Sweden.
By the way, Pearson wants to be the #1 gateway to North America. It has quite a reputation to overcome. Let's see if they make some fundamental changes to customer service. If this evening was any indication, they are off to a good start. The check-in people were friendly and the security staff smiled and even willingly explained what the hand swabs were looking for. Hurray for people being nice!
And so I am off on another adventure -- Richard said "Mom, come for a visit" and that's more than enough invitation. It will be a short trip, just a week, but there are some interesting plans which I hope work out, and the joy of visiting with family. I am looking forward to this time in Sweden.
By the way, Pearson wants to be the #1 gateway to North America. It has quite a reputation to overcome. Let's see if they make some fundamental changes to customer service. If this evening was any indication, they are off to a good start. The check-in people were friendly and the security staff smiled and even willingly explained what the hand swabs were looking for. Hurray for people being nice!
Sunday 2 October 2011
the last hotel room
Well, tomorrow morning it's off to Newark and then Toronto. I'm sitting in my compact little hotel room one train stop from the airport. The flight is at 9 am so I will be leaving the hotel about 6 am and walking to the train station -- a few hundred meters and off I go.
Copenhagen was wonderful on some levels, the best of course being that I spent it with Richard and Jennie. We had a triple (family) room at the Maritime hotel, just a half block from one of the major canals that are such an important part of the city's history. There is a real mixture of working and pleasure boats and the wonderful weather brought out all the pleasure seekers.
On the suggestion of a friend, Jennie had made reservations at a restaurant for Friday evening. I couldn't believe how busy the city was even at 9pm, but the wait was certainly worth it. It was a different menu but featured some fabulous cuisine. I would take that friend's suggestion again.
I don't know who put Jennie onto La Glace, but it had some of the most remarkable cakes I have ever seen. We each ordered a different slice and then tested around. Wow -- so good that Richard had to go back today to sample another one.
One of the things I wanted to do on this trip was picnic by the water. We managed that on Saturday as well with cheese and fabulous dark bread. I need to find someone who bakes like that at home -- or yes, I know, learn to bake it myself. We shall see.
Then as part of my birthday gift, Jenn and Rich took me to the ballet at the National Theatre. The building was amazing, the orchestra very interesting and the ballet surprisingly much more enjoyable than I imagined, never having gone to a ballet performance before! What a wonderful treat, -- thanks Rich and Jenn!
This morning we couldn't find any city bikes (the kind like our grocery carts where you shove in a coin and go and use it and get the coin back when you return it), so we wandered around. There were many shops open today (first Sunday of the month!), so lots of people out enjoying the weather and the city center. There was a lovely park to explore and some very exclusive shops for fashion, footwear and decorating. OK, there was a cheapie store too and we found some cool little items, but some of those will show up at Christmas so no more clues.
In our last hour, we headed to the south side of the city where an unusual church spire had been beckoning and yes, we walked all the way up the spiral, right to where the steps became so small that only a child could stand on them.
Negotiating the train to the airport was no problem and I said to goodbye to Richard and Jennie, and hopped onto another train to go one more stop to this little hotel. And so all that remains is to repack and try and sleep a little before the alarm goes off at 5:30.
Copenhagen was wonderful on some levels, the best of course being that I spent it with Richard and Jennie. We had a triple (family) room at the Maritime hotel, just a half block from one of the major canals that are such an important part of the city's history. There is a real mixture of working and pleasure boats and the wonderful weather brought out all the pleasure seekers.
On the suggestion of a friend, Jennie had made reservations at a restaurant for Friday evening. I couldn't believe how busy the city was even at 9pm, but the wait was certainly worth it. It was a different menu but featured some fabulous cuisine. I would take that friend's suggestion again.
I don't know who put Jennie onto La Glace, but it had some of the most remarkable cakes I have ever seen. We each ordered a different slice and then tested around. Wow -- so good that Richard had to go back today to sample another one.
One of the things I wanted to do on this trip was picnic by the water. We managed that on Saturday as well with cheese and fabulous dark bread. I need to find someone who bakes like that at home -- or yes, I know, learn to bake it myself. We shall see.
Then as part of my birthday gift, Jenn and Rich took me to the ballet at the National Theatre. The building was amazing, the orchestra very interesting and the ballet surprisingly much more enjoyable than I imagined, never having gone to a ballet performance before! What a wonderful treat, -- thanks Rich and Jenn!
This morning we couldn't find any city bikes (the kind like our grocery carts where you shove in a coin and go and use it and get the coin back when you return it), so we wandered around. There were many shops open today (first Sunday of the month!), so lots of people out enjoying the weather and the city center. There was a lovely park to explore and some very exclusive shops for fashion, footwear and decorating. OK, there was a cheapie store too and we found some cool little items, but some of those will show up at Christmas so no more clues.
In our last hour, we headed to the south side of the city where an unusual church spire had been beckoning and yes, we walked all the way up the spiral, right to where the steps became so small that only a child could stand on them.
Negotiating the train to the airport was no problem and I said to goodbye to Richard and Jennie, and hopped onto another train to go one more stop to this little hotel. And so all that remains is to repack and try and sleep a little before the alarm goes off at 5:30.
Friday 30 September 2011
waiting with a coffee
How civilized, this Maritime hotel in downtown Copenhagen. I managed to negotiate the train into the central station -- headed to the tourist info, only to find it closed, and then just took a cab. Anyway, no problems checking in and was informed that coffee and tea were like family -- available 24 hours. How nice! So, Richard and Jennie, I will be here relaxing when you arrive.
All my bags are packed.....
and ready to go. This is quite an achievement as it meant juggling weight between my carry-on (max 8 kg) and my suitcase (max 20 kg). I discarded any unnecessary paper, am wearing about twice as many clothes as I will need, deposited the CD and booklet instructions for the new camera in the garbage (bless you internet if I need help), left out the extra plastic bags that I usually carry, and, thanks to the scales borrowed from the fitness room, have a suitcase (19.7) and carry on (6.8) that are now legal.
I'm not sure about blogging the next few days as I suspect they will be packed with activity with Richard and Jennie -- dinner in Copenhagen tonight is already booked, so I have some time here in Cologne to reflect.
I love visiting Germany. Of course it would be different if I lived here and then all the obligations of life would be upon me as they are at home, but for now, this is still the freedom fairyland that I experienced the first time I visited in 1984. (I remember nothing from living here till I was 2.5 yr. and emigrating in the spring of 1954, so that doesn't count.) Don't misunderstand, I am VERY happy with my life, but I realized early on, that the major criteria for 'vacation', was getting away from the daily responsibilities of house and family life, not long journeys to exotic locales (though I like those as well). So a weekend at the condo is a wonderful break, because, as nice as home really is, it is the lifting of the mantle of responsibility that lightens the spirit. (I try to keep that mantle as light as possible at home, but it is a mantle nonetheless.)
And so for freedom, unity, and joy, I need to be very selective about what I take on. Given a week of being alone with my thoughts, I am contented with the choices of family, friends, hobbies and volunteering that fill my life. These choices, together with the gift of good health, certainly make this a blessed life. I could not ask for more.
So, gather up the luggage and figure out the transit system -- a number 16 or 18 tram to get me to the HBF and then an S 13 to the airport. Already found out that you can get your ticket on the tram, so that is convenient. Just have to make sure to have coins as the machines don't like bills. I can do that!
Denmark, here I come.
I'm not sure about blogging the next few days as I suspect they will be packed with activity with Richard and Jennie -- dinner in Copenhagen tonight is already booked, so I have some time here in Cologne to reflect.
I love visiting Germany. Of course it would be different if I lived here and then all the obligations of life would be upon me as they are at home, but for now, this is still the freedom fairyland that I experienced the first time I visited in 1984. (I remember nothing from living here till I was 2.5 yr. and emigrating in the spring of 1954, so that doesn't count.) Don't misunderstand, I am VERY happy with my life, but I realized early on, that the major criteria for 'vacation', was getting away from the daily responsibilities of house and family life, not long journeys to exotic locales (though I like those as well). So a weekend at the condo is a wonderful break, because, as nice as home really is, it is the lifting of the mantle of responsibility that lightens the spirit. (I try to keep that mantle as light as possible at home, but it is a mantle nonetheless.)
And so for freedom, unity, and joy, I need to be very selective about what I take on. Given a week of being alone with my thoughts, I am contented with the choices of family, friends, hobbies and volunteering that fill my life. These choices, together with the gift of good health, certainly make this a blessed life. I could not ask for more.
So, gather up the luggage and figure out the transit system -- a number 16 or 18 tram to get me to the HBF and then an S 13 to the airport. Already found out that you can get your ticket on the tram, so that is convenient. Just have to make sure to have coins as the machines don't like bills. I can do that!
Denmark, here I come.
Thursday 29 September 2011
Freiheit, Einheit, Freude
The translation of the title is "Freedom, Unity, Joy" and it is the slogan of the celebrations in Bonn from Oct. 1 to 3 for the German Reunification. But the unification date is also my birthday and so I can celebrate the theme personally. Looking at my life was one of the objects of this trip and the freedom I have had to visit and explore has certainly brought me joy. But for the 'unity' part -- I loved being with Rhonda, look forward to spending the weekend with Richard and Jennie and miss the family at home. The relationships are the essence of the unity. More on that later.
Bonn was only 5 km from Bad Godesberg, so I arrived too early for the Beethoven Haus and had to kill time cycling around -- will have to look up the Bonner Bogen. The little spot in the centre of town is where Ludwig was born and has quite a good collection of manuscripts, pictures, letters and musical instruments. But the overwhelming feeling I got was one of sorrow.
And then it was on through the now wide valley of the Rhine. It was such a nice day that there were sunbathers and even some swimmers in the river just south of Cologne. The main place I wanted to visit in the city was the Dom. What a juxtaposition of the ancient Gothic cathedral and the modern train station right next to it! As it was Pilgimage day, there were no regular tours, but a service at 3 pm. "You are the salt of the earth". Our purpose is to be the spice of life -- interesting!
My hotel is in the southwestern part of the city so I just poked around here after checkin. The bicycle and panier have been returned, and now the trick is to get my luggage down to 20kg for the flight tomorrow. Wish me luck!
Bonn was only 5 km from Bad Godesberg, so I arrived too early for the Beethoven Haus and had to kill time cycling around -- will have to look up the Bonner Bogen. The little spot in the centre of town is where Ludwig was born and has quite a good collection of manuscripts, pictures, letters and musical instruments. But the overwhelming feeling I got was one of sorrow.
And then it was on through the now wide valley of the Rhine. It was such a nice day that there were sunbathers and even some swimmers in the river just south of Cologne. The main place I wanted to visit in the city was the Dom. What a juxtaposition of the ancient Gothic cathedral and the modern train station right next to it! As it was Pilgimage day, there were no regular tours, but a service at 3 pm. "You are the salt of the earth". Our purpose is to be the spice of life -- interesting!
My hotel is in the southwestern part of the city so I just poked around here after checkin. The bicycle and panier have been returned, and now the trick is to get my luggage down to 20kg for the flight tomorrow. Wish me luck!
Wednesday 28 September 2011
In and out of the fog
Der Naebel ist auf kleinen Katzen Pfoten herein gekrochen. But it probably more like the army of Siamese who besieged Growltiger, because the fog was so thick in Koblenz, it was not possible to see the mid-Rhine islands, let alone the opposite shore. Couple that with the detour thanks to the construction happening on the cycle path, and I was very thankful for good signage, again, to get me on the right road.
Today's distance was the longest -- 58 km and since there was little to see for the first few hours, I just kept going, reaching Remagen about noon when the sun had finally burned off the fog. But then it was into the philosophic fog of right and wrong about the bridge, and its role in history from both the German and Allied views. There is a Peace Museum in the towers on the west side which was a worthwhile stop and consideration. Walking outside again it was such a shock to think of the awful reality of war in that serene setting.
Bad Godesberg was not much further and it really is just a southern suburb of Bonn. The hotel was another one of those which does not staff their reception during the whole day, and if it hadn't been for a gentleman who showed me where they left the keys, I might still be outside on the step waiting and trying to make phone calls -- just kept getting the german equivalent of "the number you have called is not listed, please call information". But, I found a nice room -- they gave me a choice of two, and my luggage, and the page that tells how to access the T Mobile Hot Spot, so the confusion again diffused into clarity.
I wandered around a bit downtown, found a liter of Federweiss and a grocery store, so now I have my stinky German cheese, a nasty dark seeded bun, some red cabbage, a little potato salad, and my delightful drink. Life is good.
Today's distance was the longest -- 58 km and since there was little to see for the first few hours, I just kept going, reaching Remagen about noon when the sun had finally burned off the fog. But then it was into the philosophic fog of right and wrong about the bridge, and its role in history from both the German and Allied views. There is a Peace Museum in the towers on the west side which was a worthwhile stop and consideration. Walking outside again it was such a shock to think of the awful reality of war in that serene setting.
Bad Godesberg was not much further and it really is just a southern suburb of Bonn. The hotel was another one of those which does not staff their reception during the whole day, and if it hadn't been for a gentleman who showed me where they left the keys, I might still be outside on the step waiting and trying to make phone calls -- just kept getting the german equivalent of "the number you have called is not listed, please call information". But, I found a nice room -- they gave me a choice of two, and my luggage, and the page that tells how to access the T Mobile Hot Spot, so the confusion again diffused into clarity.
I wandered around a bit downtown, found a liter of Federweiss and a grocery store, so now I have my stinky German cheese, a nasty dark seeded bun, some red cabbage, a little potato salad, and my delightful drink. Life is good.
Tuesday 27 September 2011
KO is OK
Without a camera, it was a fast trip to Koblenz today, watching the traffic (12 ships and 11 trains in a 40 minute period), and the fog lifting over the castles and the mountains on either side of the Rhine. There was only one stop at a mineral spring -- a bit too much of the minerals for me.
KO stands for Koblenz on licence plates and street signs. I like this city--
1- easy to reach -- 36 km in 1.5 hours;
2- has great signage for bike paths even when there is a detour for construction;
3- easy to find hotel with a helpful receptionist even at 10:30 am, which is long before I could check in;
4- great tourist info centre right across from the HBF with a detailed bike map of the city;
5- big shopping center (Lohr Center) with helpful staff in Saturn even when I chose a cheap camera instead of the expensive recharger (about the same price in the end, but the camera was usable right away and the recharger wouldn't make the other camera work till this evening);
6- nice central grocery store with a fabulous local blue cheese (Montagolo), and a tasty laugen stangen (pretzel in stick form);
7- access to a whole other set of bike paths on the Mosel River which I followed along the river to Gondorf and then came back through the vineyards(plus 36 km);
8- hotel on St. Josef Strasse with the suitcases already in the room;
9- heated towel racks for drying the cycling clothes after being rinsed out;
10- sudoku puzzles in the TV guide;
11- Lidl just around the corner with both the red and white versions of the partly fermented grape juice - yum!;
12- restaurant on the Rhine that substituted potato salad for french fries;
13- free computer in the lobby when wi-fi in the room would be expensive.
Who wouldn't want to spend more time here, but it's off again tomorrow!
KO stands for Koblenz on licence plates and street signs. I like this city--
1- easy to reach -- 36 km in 1.5 hours;
2- has great signage for bike paths even when there is a detour for construction;
3- easy to find hotel with a helpful receptionist even at 10:30 am, which is long before I could check in;
4- great tourist info centre right across from the HBF with a detailed bike map of the city;
5- big shopping center (Lohr Center) with helpful staff in Saturn even when I chose a cheap camera instead of the expensive recharger (about the same price in the end, but the camera was usable right away and the recharger wouldn't make the other camera work till this evening);
6- nice central grocery store with a fabulous local blue cheese (Montagolo), and a tasty laugen stangen (pretzel in stick form);
7- access to a whole other set of bike paths on the Mosel River which I followed along the river to Gondorf and then came back through the vineyards(plus 36 km);
8- hotel on St. Josef Strasse with the suitcases already in the room;
9- heated towel racks for drying the cycling clothes after being rinsed out;
10- sudoku puzzles in the TV guide;
11- Lidl just around the corner with both the red and white versions of the partly fermented grape juice - yum!;
12- restaurant on the Rhine that substituted potato salad for french fries;
13- free computer in the lobby when wi-fi in the room would be expensive.
Who wouldn't want to spend more time here, but it's off again tomorrow!
Monday 26 September 2011
More WOWs than UHOHs
Today's cycling was about 34 km from Rudesheim to St. Goar summarized as follows:
WOW every time I turned a corner in the snaking river, there was another castle ruin on the side of a mountain;
WOW along the cycle path, in the shade, some of the blackberries were still just at the ripe stage, rather than past;
WOW the ferry across the river is cool as it navigates the current, actually turning 180 to dock;
UHOH the Loreley actually had 409 steps rather than the advertised 400, but
WOW the views up and down the river were spectacular;
WOW I got someone to take my picture with the Loreley lady;
UHOH the castle Rheinfels has a 17% grade in the road access, so I left the bike at the end of a footpath and took the 184 stairs;
WOW the castle is perched on a rock and has battlements and arrow slots looking down but
UHOH the camera battery ran out and
UHOH I forgot the charger at home and
UHOH there was no place in St. Goar where I could get another charger;
WOW the castle had towers and underground battlements that were accessible;
UHOH I had skipped lunch to make sure I got to the castle and had to have a Cliff shot;
WOW I found a bakery with "end of the day" specials on a lovely apple cake with marzipan and a piece of nut torte;
UHOH the hotel is the poorest one yet, closed so I had to get a key from the lady in the casino next door, no lift, shower doesn't work properly and no internet;
WOW found a hotel at the other end of town with an internet cafe that even had wireless for 5 euro an hour;
UHOH couldn't find the restaurant recommended but
WOW lucked into cheese spatzle that were fantastic, especially along with another federweiss;
UHOH federweiss, available in bottles, only lasts about 4 days so none will be travelling to Canada;
WOW walking along the river at dusk was great with lights in the castles and mansions up the hills.
And the WOWs take the day!
WOW every time I turned a corner in the snaking river, there was another castle ruin on the side of a mountain;
WOW along the cycle path, in the shade, some of the blackberries were still just at the ripe stage, rather than past;
WOW the ferry across the river is cool as it navigates the current, actually turning 180 to dock;
UHOH the Loreley actually had 409 steps rather than the advertised 400, but
WOW the views up and down the river were spectacular;
WOW I got someone to take my picture with the Loreley lady;
UHOH the castle Rheinfels has a 17% grade in the road access, so I left the bike at the end of a footpath and took the 184 stairs;
WOW the castle is perched on a rock and has battlements and arrow slots looking down but
UHOH the camera battery ran out and
UHOH I forgot the charger at home and
UHOH there was no place in St. Goar where I could get another charger;
WOW the castle had towers and underground battlements that were accessible;
UHOH I had skipped lunch to make sure I got to the castle and had to have a Cliff shot;
WOW I found a bakery with "end of the day" specials on a lovely apple cake with marzipan and a piece of nut torte;
UHOH the hotel is the poorest one yet, closed so I had to get a key from the lady in the casino next door, no lift, shower doesn't work properly and no internet;
WOW found a hotel at the other end of town with an internet cafe that even had wireless for 5 euro an hour;
UHOH couldn't find the restaurant recommended but
WOW lucked into cheese spatzle that were fantastic, especially along with another federweiss;
UHOH federweiss, available in bottles, only lasts about 4 days so none will be travelling to Canada;
WOW walking along the river at dusk was great with lights in the castles and mansions up the hills.
And the WOWs take the day!
Sunday 25 September 2011
Smell the Traubenmost
The first event was getting over the bridge and then onto the Rhineweg on the east side of the river, taking me through Wiesbaden, and along the shore to Eltville. Took the recommended stop for coffee and cake (mmmm... Sacher torte with a layer of marzipan under the top ganche) and then decided to chance the hilly route rather than the flat in order to climb up through the vineyards. Even though the bike is way too big -- huge distance from the seat to the handlebars as compared to my lovely at home, I managed quite well on the climbs. The highest point was at the Kloster Eberbach -- site of the 1985 movie, "The Name of the Rose". It is no longer a sacred monastery and this weekend was hosting a very popular, wine sale from the local vineyards.
From there it was gradually downhill, just staying above the shore towns, and sliding underneath the Johannisberg (of the J. Riesling fame!) and into Rudesheim. Great views and fabulous smells of some of the unpicked grapes starting to ferment on the vines.
This is a quaint (most of them are) little touristy town where wine is number 1. I took the Seilbahn (rope train -- gondola ride) up the side of the mountain to where there is a huge monument to the unification of Germany in the late 1800s. Too bad it is being restored and therefore encased in scaffolding and plastic tarps. The streets were full of visitors sampling the local concoction which is called Federweiss (featherwhite) and is partially fermented traubenmost (the pressed juices of the grapes). Wow -- sweet grapes with a buzz! I had it with the traditional zwiebelkuchen (onion pie) for a lovely light supper.
My bike is safely locked in a back room, the luggage was here when I arrived at 3:45. It was a fabulous day -- can hardly wait to see what tomorrow brings!
Saturday 24 September 2011
Next stage
One of the things I love most about Europe is the old world charm. In the past few days we have visited little clay-tiled villages where the cobblestone streets are so narrow even the little BMWs have a hard time getting through. I've sampled classic cuisine (foie gras and confit de canard) in houses that have centuries old beams holding up their walls and spanning plastered white ceilings. I've walked along a river that has run through European history for thousands of years and opened shutters in my bedroom in the age-old welcoming of the day.
Those are the things I have come to expect in Europe, but the modern intrusion -- the computer in the souvenier shop selling traditional knit sweaters, the TV dish on the side of an art nouveau apartment building, the solar panels over the orange tiles on the roofs -- these always come as a surprise. I guess it is the juxtaposition of the old and the new that makes this place so fascinating. Couple that with the reaction I had the first time I came to Germany (and still have when I hear German spoken outside my family and see German signs ) that I had stepped into a land of make-believe; and you have the perfect recipe for an enchanting holiday.
And totally delightful was my visit with Rhonda -- including the fashion show where we both giggled at the underwear being paraded down the catwalk. But this was just the first part of my adventures, so after a lovely market trip in St. Louis this morning, Rhonda took me to the SBB (Basel Bahnhof) or train station. The train system is run with absolute precision and efficiency so at exactly 12:15, we left the station heading north. This was an express train and so there were only stops about every half hour as we glided swiftly and smoothly over the Rhine and into Germany. We paralled the river through agricultural areas sporting corn in the lower regions and grapes on the higher slopes. Stops were usually 2 minutes and then it was on again, crossing the Rhine and sliding into Mainz 3 hours after getting on. My hotel is less than 50m from the Bahnhof and I was checked in, into my room and out by 3:30.
The Gutenberg museum was top of the list and there was still an hour before closing. Fascinating book and printing exhibits including 2 of the very earliest Bibles from 1452 - 1455. Introduced myself to the river with a glass of Sylvaner at an outdoor stand and ducked into the Dom (Catholic Cathedral) just in time for a service honouring music -- the message likened music to Jacob's ladder bridging the distance from earth to heaven.
Can't wait to get the bicycle tomorrow morning and embark on this part of the adventure!
Those are the things I have come to expect in Europe, but the modern intrusion -- the computer in the souvenier shop selling traditional knit sweaters, the TV dish on the side of an art nouveau apartment building, the solar panels over the orange tiles on the roofs -- these always come as a surprise. I guess it is the juxtaposition of the old and the new that makes this place so fascinating. Couple that with the reaction I had the first time I came to Germany (and still have when I hear German spoken outside my family and see German signs ) that I had stepped into a land of make-believe; and you have the perfect recipe for an enchanting holiday.
And totally delightful was my visit with Rhonda -- including the fashion show where we both giggled at the underwear being paraded down the catwalk. But this was just the first part of my adventures, so after a lovely market trip in St. Louis this morning, Rhonda took me to the SBB (Basel Bahnhof) or train station. The train system is run with absolute precision and efficiency so at exactly 12:15, we left the station heading north. This was an express train and so there were only stops about every half hour as we glided swiftly and smoothly over the Rhine and into Germany. We paralled the river through agricultural areas sporting corn in the lower regions and grapes on the higher slopes. Stops were usually 2 minutes and then it was on again, crossing the Rhine and sliding into Mainz 3 hours after getting on. My hotel is less than 50m from the Bahnhof and I was checked in, into my room and out by 3:30.
The Gutenberg museum was top of the list and there was still an hour before closing. Fascinating book and printing exhibits including 2 of the very earliest Bibles from 1452 - 1455. Introduced myself to the river with a glass of Sylvaner at an outdoor stand and ducked into the Dom (Catholic Cathedral) just in time for a service honouring music -- the message likened music to Jacob's ladder bridging the distance from earth to heaven.
Can't wait to get the bicycle tomorrow morning and embark on this part of the adventure!
Wednesday 21 September 2011
Some things never change -- how wonderful!
It was 4 years ago that I last visited Rhonda here in St. Louis. Well, we took up just where we left off -- shopping for bargains, wandering through a garden center, lots of tea and coffee - though now it is mostly decaf- and lots of laughter.
She has had remarkable success with her paintings, winning first prize in a "Artist on the Street" competition last weekend and tonight we sat through the organizational info session for a show next month where she is one of 40 invited artists frm France Germany and Switzerland. The speaker spoke a lot more than necessary, but she will do very well at the show because her work is new and different from the old style most of the others still have. Congratulations Rhonda on your artistic accomplishments, but much more, thanks for being a good friend.
She has had remarkable success with her paintings, winning first prize in a "Artist on the Street" competition last weekend and tonight we sat through the organizational info session for a show next month where she is one of 40 invited artists frm France Germany and Switzerland. The speaker spoke a lot more than necessary, but she will do very well at the show because her work is new and different from the old style most of the others still have. Congratulations Rhonda on your artistic accomplishments, but much more, thanks for being a good friend.
Tuesday 20 September 2011
Arrived
So here I am sitting on the floor in Rhonda's computerroom in order to be plugged into the internet because she doesn't know the password to the wireless. When our computers automatically remember things for us, how soon we forget!
Flights all went as scheduled. Air Canada was late out of Pearson, but that meant for only 3.5 hours in Copenhagen instead of 4-- no problem. Air Berlin was perfectly on time and though there was fog and clouds in Denmark, Berlin and Basel were bathed in sunshine and a lovely 19 degrees.
I have been practising my German reading -- it needs lots of practice, but managed to read about Catherine's problems with the Queen and her lack of a friend at court. Gossip rags in German!
Rhonda and I have been out for a walk. I expect to crash shortly as I only managed one hour of sleep between "The King's Speech" and Pirates 4.
Good night all!
Flights all went as scheduled. Air Canada was late out of Pearson, but that meant for only 3.5 hours in Copenhagen instead of 4-- no problem. Air Berlin was perfectly on time and though there was fog and clouds in Denmark, Berlin and Basel were bathed in sunshine and a lovely 19 degrees.
I have been practising my German reading -- it needs lots of practice, but managed to read about Catherine's problems with the Queen and her lack of a friend at court. Gossip rags in German!
Rhonda and I have been out for a walk. I expect to crash shortly as I only managed one hour of sleep between "The King's Speech" and Pirates 4.
Good night all!
Monday 19 September 2011
Airport
C.S. Lewis, in his opening book of the Narnia series, has a place between the worlds where there is nothing but a series of pools that one can jump into and come out in a different world. I have always thought that airports are like that. This one is Toronto, but it really is no different from the others -- Oh, they play "visit Ontario" clips on the monitors and there is a Tim Horton's, but it is lines and chairs and waiting like any other airport.
Outside it is raining, so I may as well be sitting waiting, but there is excitement in the waiting. This adventure is one that I have considered for some time and finally decided upon for the celebration of my 60th birthday, which happens to be the day I return. It takes me back to my roots -- I will be passing quite close to Stuttgart where I was born, and it connects me to the future with my friend Rhonda and my kids who will be joining me for the final weekend in Copenhagen. But it will also be a time to be alone with myself -- do that contemplative "taking stock of your life" thing which milestone birthdays often inspire. Am I happy with where I am? Am I contented with my achievements? What do I want to do next?
So it will be an inward journey also, some of which I will share on this blog. I am looking forward to it with delight.
Outside it is raining, so I may as well be sitting waiting, but there is excitement in the waiting. This adventure is one that I have considered for some time and finally decided upon for the celebration of my 60th birthday, which happens to be the day I return. It takes me back to my roots -- I will be passing quite close to Stuttgart where I was born, and it connects me to the future with my friend Rhonda and my kids who will be joining me for the final weekend in Copenhagen. But it will also be a time to be alone with myself -- do that contemplative "taking stock of your life" thing which milestone birthdays often inspire. Am I happy with where I am? Am I contented with my achievements? What do I want to do next?
So it will be an inward journey also, some of which I will share on this blog. I am looking forward to it with delight.
Saturday 17 September 2011
Preparations
Getting ready is always exciting, but also brings that last minute dread. Maybe all these things which have to be done are too much and I should stay home. Fight that feeling! is my philosophy. Besides, this trip is not one where the house and cat need to be taken care of, so it is much easier just to pack the suitcase and go.
Well, in this case it is a suitcase in a suitcase as I have a new little travel bag that I will be leaving with Jennie. Unfortunately, that is at the end of the trip, so it needs to be toted inside the big one until Copenhagen. Anyway, the prep is proceeding and I think I have enough electronics to keep me in touch with the rest of the world while I am gone.
Hope to have a post most days and some pictures to whet you desire to come and sit through the whole tour when I get home.
Well, in this case it is a suitcase in a suitcase as I have a new little travel bag that I will be leaving with Jennie. Unfortunately, that is at the end of the trip, so it needs to be toted inside the big one until Copenhagen. Anyway, the prep is proceeding and I think I have enough electronics to keep me in touch with the rest of the world while I am gone.
Hope to have a post most days and some pictures to whet you desire to come and sit through the whole tour when I get home.
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