Remember I was discussing with Kieran about how Sweden is different from Canada? Here is the list of my unique Swedish souvenier items:
Gevalia coffee roasted in Gavle;
baking mats that I have no idea of the material, but they are more durable than parchment and less sticky than silicone;
swedish limpa bread mix;
moomin frig magnets;
serious pear cider;
an amber bracelet;
long silicone oven mitts;
There may be a few more things we add tomorrow as we walk down to catch the train to Arlanda airport just after 11 am, but that's the stuff I can't get easily at home.
Thursday 21 June 2012
Wednesday 20 June 2012
Be Swedish!
That call to the Swedish people was from their first King and is still ingrained in the culture today. We buy Swedish strawberries, though they cost 25% more than the ones from Belgium. We will miss the midsummer festivities, but the traditional celebrations will be on Friday and Saturday. Even Ikea has the traditional swedish summer buffet. And no apologies are made for being traditional, so in many ways, that is nice, coming from the Canadian society where tradition is being thrown out in education, holidays, and national dishes. Too bad.
I have SO enjoyed the functional cycling -- to the grocery store, to the train museum, to downtown, to the garden center, to the bank, to the liquor store, etc. I may find one of those uncool front baskets for my little green bike. With the distances around town being about 5 km to anywhere, one does not need to 'gear up' -- including no helmets as most of the riding is on cycle paths or the sidewalk which is shared with pedestrians. I think that is probably the key to better integrating cycling into our urban culture -- teach the walkers and riders to co-exist as they can talk to each other. That's not really possible with the cars.
We were walking with Kieran this morning and pointing out how Sweden is different from home. That's why I travel -- I want to see what is different in other parts of the world. He noticed that cars here have big fog lights in front, the compost bins are brown, mailboxes at the houses are blue, etc. Even now, he is gaining an appreciation for alternative lifestyles.
Wonderful railway museum complete with minitrain! And, the cake buffet at Hemlingsby was very tasty -- only 60 K (complete with unlimited coffee or tea), very strange when a coffee anywhere is easily 20K. But Hemlingsby is the municipal outdoor recreational area where Richard runs hill repeats on the ski hill, and outdoor activity is encouraged for all age groups. Bonus encouragement!
I have SO enjoyed the functional cycling -- to the grocery store, to the train museum, to downtown, to the garden center, to the bank, to the liquor store, etc. I may find one of those uncool front baskets for my little green bike. With the distances around town being about 5 km to anywhere, one does not need to 'gear up' -- including no helmets as most of the riding is on cycle paths or the sidewalk which is shared with pedestrians. I think that is probably the key to better integrating cycling into our urban culture -- teach the walkers and riders to co-exist as they can talk to each other. That's not really possible with the cars.
We were walking with Kieran this morning and pointing out how Sweden is different from home. That's why I travel -- I want to see what is different in other parts of the world. He noticed that cars here have big fog lights in front, the compost bins are brown, mailboxes at the houses are blue, etc. Even now, he is gaining an appreciation for alternative lifestyles.
Wonderful railway museum complete with minitrain! And, the cake buffet at Hemlingsby was very tasty -- only 60 K (complete with unlimited coffee or tea), very strange when a coffee anywhere is easily 20K. But Hemlingsby is the municipal outdoor recreational area where Richard runs hill repeats on the ski hill, and outdoor activity is encouraged for all age groups. Bonus encouragement!
Tuesday 19 June 2012
Playing in Swedish dirt
Gardening is joyful no matter where you do it. For the past few days, I have had the delight of rooting through Jennie and Richard's garden. Most of the plants I recognize, and most of the weeds. I even had some help from Kieran today as he collected the discards and tossed them into the compost. (He is a good helper!) I envy the little bellis (english daisies) that are everywhere in the garden and throughout the lawn. I hate pulling them out even when it is necessary as they are crowding some other desirable species.
Today we had the adventure of cycling to Hemlingby where Richard does a lot of his running training (and sees a variety of the lovely and dangerous wildlife of Sweden). It is always so nice to experience a place that you have heard about many times and now can add your own understanding to the discussion. A bonus was the lovely soup and bread lunch in the restaurant at the top of the hill. (Thanks Gord, for the recommendation.)
I love the cycle paths that connect everywhere so that shopping, sightseeing, commuting, and exercise can all be done for the most part without the hassle of cars. And they are great for walking too. Sunset at 10:23 this evening.
Today we had the adventure of cycling to Hemlingby where Richard does a lot of his running training (and sees a variety of the lovely and dangerous wildlife of Sweden). It is always so nice to experience a place that you have heard about many times and now can add your own understanding to the discussion. A bonus was the lovely soup and bread lunch in the restaurant at the top of the hill. (Thanks Gord, for the recommendation.)
I love the cycle paths that connect everywhere so that shopping, sightseeing, commuting, and exercise can all be done for the most part without the hassle of cars. And they are great for walking too. Sunset at 10:23 this evening.
Sunday 17 June 2012
There is no bad weather.....
only bad clothes. The Swedes do not let rain, or cold, or snow, or ice, or darkness stop them. One has a long raincoat, a lined raincoat, a breathable raincoat, a super-light raincoat..... you get the picture. Totally admirable coming from a society where people caught in the rain can't even get to their cars from Tim's.
Friday was moving day. We had to be out of the apartment by 11, so Sham and all our luggage hung out at the central station while the rest of us watched the changing of the guard at the Royal Palace. We were fortunate that the regiment currently on duty is a mounted regiment, complete with a mounted band -- one of only two in the world, according to Ian. The pomp and pagentry was magnificent, interesting the kids for the whole 45 minute presentation.
The changing of the guard was right on time, but the train to Gavle was delayed. However, we, and all our luggage, arrived in Gavle and were met by Richard and Jennie. Their house is wonderful. It is a combination of Swedish efficiency (hot water heated by the city system!), the loving touches of the former owners (stained glass accents and triple pane windows), and Jennie's superb artistic talent (repainting of walls for a lovely bright living room that feels like you are sitting in the garden). Joanna and family are conveniently lodged in the lower level suite, cleverly separated by curtains. Ian and I are upstairs (in a gorgeous bedroom given up by Richard and Jennie who have moved into Richard's study for the week), beside the office room. The kitchen accommodates two tables and 8 people very comfortably, not even encroaching upon the cooking and prep area. There is a huge back porch off the deck and a lovely garden beyond.
Saturday was Hogobo day -- it being 25 km away and we only having the extra car for this weekend. This is a lovely area featuring small lakes, walking (and skiing) trails, boats for hire, artisans working on site, a hotel, cottages, a cafeteria and a wonderful restaurant. We all spent the afternoon and then Joanna, Sham and kids went home for pasta supper while Ian, Jennie, Richard and I have a fantastic meal which culminates in a cheese board and then dessert buffet of some of the most interesting flavour combinations -- all done in tiny amounts.
Today was Ikea visit and there are some subtle differences -- had to have the silicone gloves which I have never seen at home.
And Jennie and Richard have a garden. There is all the excitement of seeing what comes up in a new garden and trying to identify as desirable or weed, some of the large clumps. Raspberries have a prominent spot and there are pockets of herbs amongst the flowers. Delightful.
It's been sun and rain and sprinkle, but we are trying to adopt that Swedish motto -- no bad weather, just bad clothes!
Friday was moving day. We had to be out of the apartment by 11, so Sham and all our luggage hung out at the central station while the rest of us watched the changing of the guard at the Royal Palace. We were fortunate that the regiment currently on duty is a mounted regiment, complete with a mounted band -- one of only two in the world, according to Ian. The pomp and pagentry was magnificent, interesting the kids for the whole 45 minute presentation.
The changing of the guard was right on time, but the train to Gavle was delayed. However, we, and all our luggage, arrived in Gavle and were met by Richard and Jennie. Their house is wonderful. It is a combination of Swedish efficiency (hot water heated by the city system!), the loving touches of the former owners (stained glass accents and triple pane windows), and Jennie's superb artistic talent (repainting of walls for a lovely bright living room that feels like you are sitting in the garden). Joanna and family are conveniently lodged in the lower level suite, cleverly separated by curtains. Ian and I are upstairs (in a gorgeous bedroom given up by Richard and Jennie who have moved into Richard's study for the week), beside the office room. The kitchen accommodates two tables and 8 people very comfortably, not even encroaching upon the cooking and prep area. There is a huge back porch off the deck and a lovely garden beyond.
Saturday was Hogobo day -- it being 25 km away and we only having the extra car for this weekend. This is a lovely area featuring small lakes, walking (and skiing) trails, boats for hire, artisans working on site, a hotel, cottages, a cafeteria and a wonderful restaurant. We all spent the afternoon and then Joanna, Sham and kids went home for pasta supper while Ian, Jennie, Richard and I have a fantastic meal which culminates in a cheese board and then dessert buffet of some of the most interesting flavour combinations -- all done in tiny amounts.
Today was Ikea visit and there are some subtle differences -- had to have the silicone gloves which I have never seen at home.
And Jennie and Richard have a garden. There is all the excitement of seeing what comes up in a new garden and trying to identify as desirable or weed, some of the large clumps. Raspberries have a prominent spot and there are pockets of herbs amongst the flowers. Delightful.
It's been sun and rain and sprinkle, but we are trying to adopt that Swedish motto -- no bad weather, just bad clothes!
Thursday 14 June 2012
Steeped in history
The official birthday of Stockholm is August 1252, but that's only the first mention of the city in a letter written by the King and he was writing from a city, so who knows when it actually started. But whenever it was, the place certainly has history in your face, around every corner. Stockholm boasts 84 museums and today we skimmed the surface of 2.
From Gamla Stan, the original old town where our apartment is located, one can ferry to many of the other islands accessible by bridges also, but with a long walk. We boated over to the island which has a number of historic sites and walked to the Vassa Museum. This entire museum is for the royal military boat -- the Vassa which sank in the late 1600s after 1,300 m on its maiden voyage. That's right -- less than 2 km and a gust of wind broadside tipped, the top-heavy boat to the point where the (unfortunately still open after the cannon salute) gun holes were immersed, the ship took on water and sank, killing about 30 of the 500 on board. At the end of the 20th century it was raised and painstakingly reconstructed. Most of the ship on display is original and the carvings and design features are beautiful to behold, but first and foremost, a ship has to be able to manage the seas. OOPS!
The second dose of history was the Ridderholm Church. It is the oldest building in Stockholm dating from the 1260s. Started by Franciscan monks, it lost much of its prestige after the turn from Catholicism and became a church for burials. The Royal dynasties build elaborate chapels on the sides of the church, but common folk could be buried under the church floor if they could manage the price. Our guide was passionate about the topic and we could have gone on long after the one hour tour if it had not been closing time.
Ian and I poked around the city this afternoon and it is good to know that we can find some of the interesting spots from our previous trip, -- makes Stockholm an old friend to visit again and again.
From Gamla Stan, the original old town where our apartment is located, one can ferry to many of the other islands accessible by bridges also, but with a long walk. We boated over to the island which has a number of historic sites and walked to the Vassa Museum. This entire museum is for the royal military boat -- the Vassa which sank in the late 1600s after 1,300 m on its maiden voyage. That's right -- less than 2 km and a gust of wind broadside tipped, the top-heavy boat to the point where the (unfortunately still open after the cannon salute) gun holes were immersed, the ship took on water and sank, killing about 30 of the 500 on board. At the end of the 20th century it was raised and painstakingly reconstructed. Most of the ship on display is original and the carvings and design features are beautiful to behold, but first and foremost, a ship has to be able to manage the seas. OOPS!
The second dose of history was the Ridderholm Church. It is the oldest building in Stockholm dating from the 1260s. Started by Franciscan monks, it lost much of its prestige after the turn from Catholicism and became a church for burials. The Royal dynasties build elaborate chapels on the sides of the church, but common folk could be buried under the church floor if they could manage the price. Our guide was passionate about the topic and we could have gone on long after the one hour tour if it had not been closing time.
Ian and I poked around the city this afternoon and it is good to know that we can find some of the interesting spots from our previous trip, -- makes Stockholm an old friend to visit again and again.
Wednesday 13 June 2012
Stockholm at 2 am
With the clouds lit up from a bright horizon, it looks like dusk. The buildings and trees are still quite visible. The crescent moon looks unusually large, still being low in the sky. Certainly the lights reflecting in the water make a big difference too, but the view from the window is incredible for 2 am. And I guess the Swedes feel the same way, as there are still pedestrians and cars passing by below. One needs to make up for the endless winter.
We had a great day, starting with a boat tour around a number of the islands and through some of the old canals. Ian, the boat enthusiast among us, was snapping pictures everywhere of the lovely wooden boats close to shore on simple docks. We passed under a variety of Stockholm's bridges from simple low arches to a high triple span (two for cars, one for rail). No garbage!
After the kids' nap, we were off, first to have 'tea' at a little chocolate shop -- oh so decadent!, and then to see the boat elevator (lock) which is just at the southern tip of this island. It only lifts/lowers the boats by about a meter, but Kieran still enjoyed it, especially when the policemen in the police boat said hi to him on their trip through.
Nothing beats dinner outdoors, but put the table on a slanted cobblestone base and you have a unique experience. Add reindeer, arctic char, and Versterbotten pie and you have a memory. Finally, throw in a street busker juggling, and this was a an adventure.
And on such a lovely night, the guys went out for a nightcap while the girls stayed in and watched a video from the collection here at the apartment. Nice day! (and incredible night)
We had a great day, starting with a boat tour around a number of the islands and through some of the old canals. Ian, the boat enthusiast among us, was snapping pictures everywhere of the lovely wooden boats close to shore on simple docks. We passed under a variety of Stockholm's bridges from simple low arches to a high triple span (two for cars, one for rail). No garbage!
After the kids' nap, we were off, first to have 'tea' at a little chocolate shop -- oh so decadent!, and then to see the boat elevator (lock) which is just at the southern tip of this island. It only lifts/lowers the boats by about a meter, but Kieran still enjoyed it, especially when the policemen in the police boat said hi to him on their trip through.
Nothing beats dinner outdoors, but put the table on a slanted cobblestone base and you have a unique experience. Add reindeer, arctic char, and Versterbotten pie and you have a memory. Finally, throw in a street busker juggling, and this was a an adventure.
And on such a lovely night, the guys went out for a nightcap while the girls stayed in and watched a video from the collection here at the apartment. Nice day! (and incredible night)
stockholm in the rain
I am sitting here in the bay window of our 4th floor apartment, looking over the boats and harbour of Stockholm. It is currently raining fairly heavily, but that does not stop the ferries, the sightseeing boats, the cyclists, the pedestrians or anything about the progress of the day. It is a frequent, usually short, part of the day, and already the clouds are moving on and brighter sky is visible out over the arm of the ocean where the cruise boats enter the harbour.
The apartment which we have rented for the week, is huge -- a real living space with a big eat-in kitchen, a formal dining room, a little alcove where Kieran sleeps, the front foyer, a big parlour with only a piano and a few chairs around the perimeter (K has designated it as the dancing room and there would be space for at least 4 couples to dance), a big living room, a library which is where Ian and I sleep, a big bedroom for Joanna, Sham and Clara, and then a laundry area plus 1.5 bathrooms. No certainly not roughing it! We opted for this arrangement rather than 2 or 3 hotel rooms as it makes travelling with the little ones so much easier.
Ian and I arrived yesterday afternoon, exactly on schedule. We took a taxi from the airport which, while being more costly, made the trip with extra luggage (Rich and Jenn's stuff) ,much easier. It was a long day and everyone went to bed early.
Joanna and company had already done some of the attractions and so this morning was designated "boat tour" which Ian and I have not done as our other visits to Stockholm have been in November. Today the boat ride up the canals between some of the islands, was spectacular. And bonus, most of the small pleasure boats and seasonal houseboats were all about, adding to the history and stories related by the tour company. I think there is a trip to the locks planned for after nap-- yes, that's another great aspects of vacation -- of the six of us, I am the only one not napping at this time. But the apartment is big enough and the time lazy enough for each of us to indulge in whatever we want to do.
This window on the city is fascinating. Last evening we watched as one of the tour boats readied to leave. There were the little ferries which shuttled people back and for to the dock, doing their final unloading and then being hoisted beside the lifeboats; the anchors being hauled up while the tug turned the boat around; and finally the big ship sailing out. But the huge cruise boats are only a small fraction of the water traffic. Every size of watercraft -- right down to single person kayaks, use the waterways. The street below has bicycles and pedestrians on the sidewalk, cars on on the outer lanes and only city buses on the centre lanes. There's a creative way to move traffic through a city!
Well, another rain shower has just finished. Time to get the kids up and find a nice afternoon coffee.
The apartment which we have rented for the week, is huge -- a real living space with a big eat-in kitchen, a formal dining room, a little alcove where Kieran sleeps, the front foyer, a big parlour with only a piano and a few chairs around the perimeter (K has designated it as the dancing room and there would be space for at least 4 couples to dance), a big living room, a library which is where Ian and I sleep, a big bedroom for Joanna, Sham and Clara, and then a laundry area plus 1.5 bathrooms. No certainly not roughing it! We opted for this arrangement rather than 2 or 3 hotel rooms as it makes travelling with the little ones so much easier.
Ian and I arrived yesterday afternoon, exactly on schedule. We took a taxi from the airport which, while being more costly, made the trip with extra luggage (Rich and Jenn's stuff) ,much easier. It was a long day and everyone went to bed early.
Joanna and company had already done some of the attractions and so this morning was designated "boat tour" which Ian and I have not done as our other visits to Stockholm have been in November. Today the boat ride up the canals between some of the islands, was spectacular. And bonus, most of the small pleasure boats and seasonal houseboats were all about, adding to the history and stories related by the tour company. I think there is a trip to the locks planned for after nap-- yes, that's another great aspects of vacation -- of the six of us, I am the only one not napping at this time. But the apartment is big enough and the time lazy enough for each of us to indulge in whatever we want to do.
This window on the city is fascinating. Last evening we watched as one of the tour boats readied to leave. There were the little ferries which shuttled people back and for to the dock, doing their final unloading and then being hoisted beside the lifeboats; the anchors being hauled up while the tug turned the boat around; and finally the big ship sailing out. But the huge cruise boats are only a small fraction of the water traffic. Every size of watercraft -- right down to single person kayaks, use the waterways. The street below has bicycles and pedestrians on the sidewalk, cars on on the outer lanes and only city buses on the centre lanes. There's a creative way to move traffic through a city!
Well, another rain shower has just finished. Time to get the kids up and find a nice afternoon coffee.
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