Updated Lisbon

In case you were wondering if all of Lisbon was centuries old, there is a whole district east of the old city centre (called 'Oriente', surprise!) which boasts both private and public buildings on the cutting edge of modern architecture.  The area was developed for the 1998 Lisbon World Expo and besides monuments, an amazing suspended concrete roof, buildings all done in ship motifs (the theme of the Expo was the world's oceans), a new avante garde train/metro station and a restored stack from the oil refineries which used to occupy the real estate, there is a spectacular Oceanarium featuring the second largest tank in the world.  None of these I visited, just took the tour bus through the area --maybe another time.

I had contemplated visiting the Tile museum, but my guidebook indicated that the best modern tiles were to be found in practical use on buildings and especially in train/metro stations.  Today's picture is a typical tile, in the traditional blue and white motif, which is actually the sign for an antique shop across from my hotel.

As the next part of my adventure begins with the pickup for the cycling tour (about 45 min. from now), I am not sure when I will be blogging again.  I hope that most (all) of the lodging spots over the next week will have wifi, but one is never sure in medieval villages.

With the prospect of travelling back in time several hundred years, I am glad to know that I have had this afternoon, a slice of 'the world's best chocolate cake'. (I would give it an 8.5)

Seeing the sights

The hotel works very well for a downtown home base -- nothing elaborate in terms of room or breakfast, but adequate to the cause!

The Yellow hop-on bus leaves just a few blocks from the hotel and I was out there when they started.  I   began on the Tagus line which wove it way around the central avenue and up into a newer section before turning back to the south (by the river Tagus) and heading along the north shore to Belem.  Many of the historic buildings are located west of the city as the ruler who survived the 1755 earthquake vowed not to live in a stone building again and established a "Royal Hut" out of the city.  That meant, of course, that Belem had to be included in the city proper, but the royal palace was built in Belem.  This was also from where most of the explorers set sail and the new monument to those brave adventurers is spectacular.  But the much older tower of Belem, built as a fortification on the river is as  impressive in a much older style.  There are museums for art, ancient architecture, astronomy, naval matters, etc.  I chose to visit the Coach museum (claiming to be the best in the world, though I think the British one is superior) which enlightened my about the evolution of carriage design.

The waterfront here is that wonderful combination of leisure, tourism, entertainment and function.  (Hamilton, can we finally get it together?)  Today I saw an 8s rowing boat, huge freighters, new sail boats, and even some vintage multimasted schooners.  The water seems to have quite a current, judging from the waves and the jellyfish.  The suspension bridge (Vasco de Gama) built in the 1960s is both for cars and trains, reaches the opposite shore close to the statue of Christ with open arms.  The south shoreline is much less developed than the north.

Today's picture is of a church I visited late this afternoon.  It was not the only church on my itinerary today, but it was the most unique in that it was an archaeological site.  Much of the building was destroyed by the 1755 earthquake and the restoration projects ran out of money.  Therefore, the main part of the church is without a roof, though the ribs from the pillars are still present in some places.

So far, I have chosen not to try the typical Portuguese custard tart, nor had any fish.  I am assuming that will be common in the next week.  I did however, same some lovely cookies at a pasteleria in Belem.  Love what they do with almonds!

If Europe is in economic crisis.....

If Europe is in economic crisis, then no one has told the airports.  Construction is everywhere at Heathrow so that travelling from one terminal to another by bus is a maze-like adventure through fenced and pyloned paths, around new multilevel parking garages and glassed terminal structures.  Almost every flight out of Terminal 1 today was delayed -- we actually left almost 3 hours late for Lisbon.  And we had been stacked up in the air for about 15 minutes coming in, so the problems just multiply. There were travellers everywhere.   Maybe choosing London as my transfer point instead of Newark, was not such a good idea.

Lisbon airport is also undergoing improvements on many fronts.  But the 20 degrees at touchdown and the palms greeting you on the tarmac, make for a very different feeling.  There is a bit more easy-going feeling, but maybe that was me -- treking into town on the bus like a local.  I guess I missed the 'backpack through Europe' phase in my 20s, and am making up for it a bit now.  All of the officials and service people here speak English well, so there is no problem with finding the right bus and bus stop.

Did my favourite supper -- bread and cheese!  Had a hard time finding darker bread, not nearly so common here as in Germany.  And so far, the local cheese have been quite mild.  However, add the Iberian touch -- a litre of gazpacho to accompany!  Hotel is basic but fine and close to the main routes I wish to access tomorrow.  

Ah yes, some sleep -- managed only a total of 3 hours in the last 24.

You've come a long way, baby

Sorry, but no picture with this post.

I am sitting here at the airport contemplating how air travel has changed in the last years.  I booked this flight strictly online, choosing from a variety of routes and carriers that were searched for me; the hotel was an online booking, not chosen from the internet but rather recommended by a friend, the 'hop-on-hop-off' ticket was found and done online and the tour which I will be taking was booked in cyberspace.  Through email, I have conversed with the hotel people, the bus people and the cycling tour leaders, having questions answered and conditions clarified.  I paid for all these items while comfortably sitting at my desk, with just my credit card or in some cases, Paypal.    I love the internet.

I checked in at a kiosk, got boarding passes for both legs of my trip and a luggage tag for my suitcase all the way to Lisbon.  Around me there are dozens of people with their computers, tablets or smart phones, and the TV just had a blurb about the launch of Windows 8.  Thanks to American Express, there is free Wifi here and Terminal 1   has lots of plugs for power.  I am no Steve Jobs with a vision of where we go from here, but it is exciting and I don't want to be left behind.  (OK, my cell phone is a dinosaur.)

Hope you all are optimistic about the future too!  And of course, I am looking forward to this particular new adventure.

Coming home richer

The travel day is never our favourite, but everything from the checkout, to the train, to the plane all went as well as could be expected.  We arrived in Toronto at 8:45 pm, and we in our car by 9:50, home at 11.  And, I managed to sleep a solid 6 hours. Today's picture shows that there are some relaxing times even in a travel day.

So, we brought back some wine, a new spatzle press, a new slicer gadget, a new sharpening gadget (recognize a theme here?), and a few gifts, but it is, of course, the memories that are the most precious souveniers:  a variety of river cycling, cathedrals, castles, boats, fountains, federweisser, pastries and dairy products.

Remember, if you want to join us for pictures and discussion, put Friday, Oct. 12, 7 pm on your calendar and let me know you are coming.

Finally, ON the Rhine

Since being here, we have cycled beside the river, cycled over the river, trained over the river, ridden a cable-car over the river, walked by the river and today, finally, been on a boat ON the river.  Between spitting showers, we took a nice one hour tour of the Rhine and the Mosel with a guide pointing out some of the highlights.  It was a lovely way to cap off our last day here.

And now to answer the questions some of you have undoubtably been asking:
Yes, Federweisser does improve with age.
Yes, the Germans love to shop -- a new shopping centre opened today and the advertisement for the Forum Middelrhein was that it was not a shopping area, but your new home!
Yes, there is a bakery on every block! (with fresh savouries and sweets).
Yes, there is decent wine for 2 euros a bottle!
Yes, the kanelbulle at Ikea in Germany have cardamom, just like in Sweden.
No, it's not hats, but everyone, male and female, wears a neck scarf.
No, happy hour is not about half price drinks, but about half price entrees.
Yes, the Germans still do icewein, for 8 euros a half bottle (about $10).
Yes, the trains run all night (our hotel is close to the tracks).

So, if you have enjoyed my blog and wish to join us to see all the pictures or have some other questions, put Friday, October 12 on your calendar -- our house 7 pm.  Let me know if you are planning to come.

Not my usual K day

With rain forecast in varying amounts for the whole day, we decided to take a train north and visit Koln -- aka Cologne (or just K whereas Koblenz is KO).  The leisurely regional train went up the east side of the Rhine,  went through woods and small towns, by vineyards and finally into the flat fields that characterize the region beyond Bonn.  We came into Koln via the bridge with thousands of locks fastened to it -- lovers put their names on the lock, lock it to the bridge fencing and then throw the key into the Rhine.  And as one leaves the Hbf, there it is, the number one attraction of the area, towering over you at 157 m, Kolner Dom (today's picture).  The gothic structure with incredible vaulting and flying buttresses for support is simply awesome.  One could go into detail about the windows, the choir, the organ pipes, the side chapels, the golden case for the relics of the magi, the incredible treasures in the Schatzkammer, but nothing will amaze you like standing before the structure and feeling your own insignificance.

Also in the city, is the major art museum of the Rhine region -- the Wallraf- Richartz Museum.  The permanent collections of medieval, and baroque are extensive and well displayed (even english!), and currently there is an impressionist exhibition which includes Monet, Gauguin, Cezanne and Van Gogh.  Certainly worth the visit!

It was commuter time by the time we headed back south, but the folk are pleasant and most were gone by Bonn so we could enjoy a nice view seated together.  Even though there was really no rain, we don't regret our choice of day's activities.

(P.S., my usual K day is a day spent with Kieran, and there are no regrets there either!!)