Sunday 8 December 2019

Stockhom again

It was about ten years ago that I first came to Stockholm.  That initial visit was also in the fall so the grey misty weather fits my sense of the city.  Not a complaint, and not a negative comment on the capital, but just a statement.  The motto is that there is no bad weather, just bad clothes.  I have adequate clothes for the elements, so there is no problem.  As an aside, I have been here in June in lovely weather and that is, of course, wonderful, but clouds and rain don't detract from a place for me as much as they do for others.

Despite my enthusiasm for new adventures, I do love to revisit places and note changes as well as those enduring aspects which I enjoyed previously.  The old part of the city, Gamla Stan, is on one of the central islands of this archipelago, and boasts the Royal Palace.  The guards change all through the seasons, and there was a group of eight black and white clad marchers on a narrow cobbled street this morning.  The souvenier shops were open but not all shutters had been removed on the Christmas Market stalls.


I kept seeing people in Santa suits and thought that they were headed for the Market, but no, they were converging on the large park on the north shore across from the Palace.  And there were more and more.  It was a fun 3 km walk/run in support of disabled children, I found out, and there were more than 1400 Santas involved.  Old, young, and families with kids in strollers were all participating and with the organization  being done by volunteers, all the money (except for the disposable Santa suits and beards) was going to the charity.  How wonderful!

The flagship stores of NK and Ahlens are still here, as is the big downtown mall (restrooms still in the same spot) with the same kiosk still selling a fabulous walnut, apricot and raisin bread.  It's in the backpack waiting for tomorrow. We had a great breakfast here on the boat and this afternoon, we have a reservation for Julbord at the Grand Hotel.  Should be amazing.

The boat -- well, she is a yacht  -- a luxury yacht owned by a variety of rich and famous through the years including Barbara Hutton who reportedly received the vessel as an 18th birthday gift from her father (Woolworth fortune).  The rooms are tiny -- we have the front cabin with two port holes and a wall that slants outwards as it is just under the front deck -- but the bunks were comfortable and the dark wood everywhere on board gives a sense of historic elegance.

Arriving late last evening we could not appreciate the incredible views over Stockholm harbour, but breakfast was an excellent opportunity to appreciate the well-maintained buildings, large and small, visible on the shores.  There are a variety of ships anchored about, some hotels like this one, others private homes or tour boats.  Even in the grey rain of December, everything seems clean and well kept.  The Swedes are very proud of their capitol.  This week there are the Nobel Prize events in addition to Lucia and the Christmas celebrations.  It is somewhat sad, though, to see all the adornment and delight of the season without any references to what I consider the essence of the celebration.  No creche scenes grace the parks and decorations are all secular.

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