Two years ago, Duane, Ian and I had a wonderful day tour with a guide named Henrique. He left us with his email address and so, when we were contemplating a tour to see some of the spots on the island that we had not visited, we contacted him.
Yesterday he picked us up at 9 am and we drove to the north of the island to gather up another couple at a hotel in Capelas. These seniors were on a promotional Madeira/Sao Miguel tour, but the tour company had them at a very nice hotel, away from all the main attractions. They had a car, but basically had come to the same conclusion as we had, that concentrating on either the driving on narrow curvy streets or an inadequate map, left no time to enjoy the countryside.
Enter Henrique. Born in Lisbon, his family hails from the island and as a child, he spent all his summers here with grandparents. Portuguese history was not only taught extensively in both primary and secondary school, but it is part of his passion for the island. He and Ian discussed many aspects of island development and issues.
Our tour was to be to Ribeira Dos Caleiroes (two waterfalls) park, Nordeste with scenic lookouts on the east coast, lunch in Povoacao and a drive through Furnas. Henrique added a lava site, the tea plantation, hot springs and viewpoints on the south shore. Ian refers to the two waterfalls park as Rivendell, being an idyllic little gorge hidden back from the north shore.
The miradour (lookouts) on the east coast were spectacular, both the lighthouse and the natural cliffs. And they do lookouts in style, with gardens, barbeque facilities and shelters.
Povoacao was the first settlement on the island and although the marker says 1432, there is some evidence that it was earlier.
As before, our day was filled with excellent discussion, fabulous scenery, informative stops and a friendly atmosphere. Henrique said he has never been as busy as this year in the winter. Let's hope that there aren't too many tourists to destroy this place.
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