If we had thought that Funchal was up and down, we now have a very different perspective, having driven to the north coast and then back over the central mountains. The first things that struck us was the number of tunnels. I checked and the top 4 (at least) roadway tunnels in Portugal, are on this island. They are spectacular arched pieces of engineering, wonderfully lit and with escape routes at least every 500 m. The cost must have been staggering. And, along the VR1 (Via Rapida) the tunnels are only two lanes wider -- both in the same direction, so there are twice as many per section of roadway. I can understand the construction of such marvels along the most densely populated southern coast, but the main road along the north coast boasts tunnels too! And here there is very little traffic, from what we observed. Little towns still sit on the beaches where a river emerges from the cliffs, but on this side of the island, there is almost no flat land and so very few grape terraces or fields. It is no surprise that the north was settled much later than the south.
We stopped for lunch in Porto Moniz which is the north west point of the island. The municipal pools are crystal clear, dammed tidal pools between outcroppings of volcanic rock. Very creative use of a natural structure. Climbing out of Porto Moniz was certainly the steepest drive I have every made in a standard car, but I was most grateful being in a tiny little Skoda rather than a huge long Volvo bus when going around the switchbacks.
We climbed far over the clouds up to about 1600m and found snow at the side of the road in places. There are a number of walks along water channels, but with Ian's sore back, uneven ground and up and down are not a good idea.
Having returned safely and without getting lost, we will probably explore another section tomorrow.
No comments:
Post a Comment